Creating an illusion is, for me, what the suit’s all about. Masking those flaws which you learn to live with, but not necessarily love! We all have them and it’s just a case of working out how to negotiate them.
I’ve made thousands of suits for customers over the years, through thick and thin. (I’m referring to customers waistlines here) and mid weight fabrics always look the best. Anything from a 11oz upwards, will not only have you looking your finest, they’ll last longer, and look better for longer.
With a heavier weight fabric, the internals of the suit are well and truly masked and so are your flaws. I tend to find that with lighter weight fabrics they look better in bespoke, rather than in made to measure, where the glued fusing of the chest can make it more visible. With the light hand stitched non-fused facing in a bespoke suit this is not so visible.
My favourite suggestions for a mid weight suit are 12oz pure wools, pure wool with 1%cashmere which adds a little luxury to make a really beautiful business suit and are also fit for all occasions.
Creating an illusion of slenderness
Make sure that the shoulder line of your jacket sits right at the edge of your shoulder. Not over and not any slimmer.
Have a nipped in waist. The slimmer you are, the more dramatic this can go. If you’re a slightly larger man, you’ll want a very soft curve on the back of the jacket.
Plainer fabrics or that with some texture looks best and is the most timeless and wearable with a number of shirts and ties.
The most flattering length for a jacket is one that falls to the mid part of your bottom. Not too long and not too short. This gives your legs the chance to have some limelight. A jacket that sits too short creates focus on the hips, which for both men and women seems to be the sore point, unless of course you’re a slender waif, in which case, this look still works, as it creates an attractive streamline look.