How the world of Tailoring is changing: Tailoring trends in 2018
For a long time now things have been stirring up in the men’s fashion world; both in Tailoring and informal wear and we explain why.
Why is this?
Dress down Friday was introduced in the 1960’s but came more prominent in the UK from the 90’s. Since then, Men have adopted a more relaxed approach to Tailoring in the workplace. Even though Men aren’t quite as concerned with purchasing sharp suits for their everyday uniform, it doesn’t mean that they’ve stopped buying clothes altogether. Quite the contrary and perhaps why it makes sense then that the Mens fashion industry has boomed in recent years and is set to keep on rising. Profits are up 70% from 1998, proving that there’s real interest from Men to both spend more, and more often on clothing.
‘The explosion in popularity of menswear in recent years suggests men have become more fashion-conscious.’ Says EuropeanCEO
Colour is being introduced as men are getting noticeably braver, which I’m calling the ‘peacock syndrome’ (note it’s not actually called that, I just love making up my own phrases..)
We have Pitti Uomo to thank for this, as the competition is on (not literally) to stand out. An array of colour and texture is glorious to see and has far outweighed London’s men’s collection, which is sad. I would personally love to see something be done about that, but I’m just a little competitive 😉
Men are aspiring to look like the incredible fashion icons who are appearing on Instagram and taking note that they can indeed be braver and not look silly. Muses such as David Gandy, Greg Rutherford, Andreas Weinas are inspiring Men all over the world to tap into their inner gods…
It would appear that tailoring is loosening up and new methods are being applied for convenience, comfort and leisure. With the Spring/Summer months ahead (here’s hoping) I give you the list of trends in tailoring for 2018.
Reviewing the new collections from Gieves & Hawkes and Ede & Ravenscroft, the most popular style show a comfortable and softer suit with flat fronted trousers and clean lines to maintain sophistication. On sites such as Moss Bros and Mr Porter they show suits by the likes of Hugo Boss, Ermenegildo Zegna, Paul Smith, Kingsman and Canali, also demonstrating a comfortable and softer suit, with some showing a slim-fit style. Overall notch lapels seem a popular choice with widths varying, but so do sharp peaked lapels, which create a more statement look; notably seen by Kingsman on Taron Egerton in the 2017 film ‘Kingsman The Golden Circle’.
For this style of suit, a full floating canvas is predominantly used in the construction, for a softer overall appearance, keeping structure in the important parts of a suit, ie the lapels, chest and shoulder. The rest of the suit looks more relaxed, working accordingly with the spring and summer seasons.
What makes these suits what they are is down to the cloth. Lightweight cloth such as virgin wool is the popular choice. Other alternatives include silk/cotton blends, linen and wool-silk-linen-yarn. Their aim’s to create comfort, lightness and movement. Another go to cloth is a classic birdseye cloth, in a comfortable, light weight high twist wool, this cloth is perfect for the travelling businessman. He can fold up his jacket without the worry of it creasing in his bag or suitcase.
Colour is definitely coming to the forefront of most collections. Whether it be full on colour throughtout the collection or just a smattering of, its definitely becoming more apparent in collections. Shows such as Pitti Uomo have really encouraged men to show off their pizzazz with colour, texture and layering, which is fantastic.
On one end of the spectrum, clothing houses are producing up to six collections a year, they’re wild and wacky and tapping into an almost 80s vibe. The huge productions and constant flow of collections are however causing a stir in the world of sustainability.
In men’s tailoring specifically, the light construction is definitely making waves, soft shoulders over firm, with much lighter constructions. Think linen jackets with no lining and minimal canvassing.
There should always be movement in everything otherwise life gets pretty dull. I’m delighted men are experimenting more with colour, texture and styles. Do I love the light construction? Yes, it does feel comfortable and is weightless but like everything, there’s a time and a place. I’ll always be passionate about sleek, firm shouldered suits that show you mean business. The way a structured suit can manipulate what the eye sees is very clever. For business, I would love to see things really sharpen up again, confidence comes in Tailoring you can feel proud in. For off duty, I’d love to see men scrap a navy or camel coat and opt for more colour and texture.
To find your style and understand the variety constructions that can be made in Tailoring feel free to request a call or to book an appointment.
Have your say: What do you feel about the changes happening in Tailoring & men’s fashion? Comment below
Words by Ben Springham & Alexandra Wood