Is bespoke a con?
Am I having the wool pulled over my eyes when Im being told that I’m getting a bespoke suit when it’s really made to measure?
When googling the term – What is bespoke? Here’s what comes up:
“Bespoke clothing is traditionally cut from a pattern drafted from scratch for the customer, and so differs from ready to wear. Made to measure is produced to order from an adjusted block.”
Google the word ‘bespoke’ and the adjective is described as goods (especially clothing) made to order.
Some Tailors deem this to mean that either way; it is made for you and no one else.
What it comes down to is the technicalities and also what you are wanting the end result to look and feel like and the price you are paying.
Made to measure typically costing from £895-£1500 for a two piece suit. Bespoke costing between £2300-£3000 for a two piece suit.
Bespoke in real terms is a suit which is made from a paper pattern, which is made from your exact measurements; literally within an inch. If anyone else tried it on, it simply wouldn’t fit and would have the completely incorrect imprint. Whereas made to measure is more forgiving.
Bespoke suit canvasses are softened and moulded using unique procedures to create the necessary shape for your body. Hours of precision and cutting by hand and chalking directly onto the cloth happens when creating a unique suit for someone. Some bespoke suits taking between 3-6 months or even longer to perfect, as its finely tuned with every change, being updated on your paper pattern so that it is yours and yours only.
With made to measure your measurements are taken and entered into a CAD system, which will allow for your fabric to be cut to precision, based around a block. We personally hold master models for customers to try on based around their chest measurement and adapted accordingly. This way you can really feel what the structure of the suit feels like and we are able to see the modifications necessary for you. Made to measure is, however, different from what it used to be and used by a skilled Tailor, you can have a pretty impeccable suit that is cut to precision. Why? Because there’s an insane amount of coding and changes that can be made and it takes a real understanding of the body along with experience, to choose the right one/s for each customer.
With regards to design with made to measure, if you want roped shoulders, soft shoulders or smooth and flat, you’ve got it. Whereas years ago, a shoulder width couldn’t even be changed, only sleeve length, trouser length etc..
The main area where you will see the difference is the chest. Bespoke tends to mould into the body and hide a multitude of sins all at the same time. Where a made to measure suit, because of the construction will be that bit more rigid. This is because of the fused interfacing, where the bespoke has a free floating canvas lightly which allows the suit more movement.
When customers ask me what they should choose. I say its merely a matter of choice, budgets and the end result that you are wanting to achieve. Want to feel the difference and discuss further, feel free to come by and we’d be delighted to explain the processes.
Stay tuned for our next post about the finer differences between made to measure and a list of the terminology, so you won’t be left in the dark.
See you soon,