Tweed lining of a suit

How should a suit fit: According to Alexandra Wood

There are so many blogs, articles and videos about how a suit should fit. Yes, there are general rules, but in my view the key is how it makes you look and feel and that’s what is important.

Number one, it drives me completely nuts when I see a comment that says: ‘Oh but the jacket doesn’t quite cover his bottom, or the sleeve length means that he’s showing 2cm rather than 1cm’. All in all, like with a food critic who says a restaurants food was dry or poorly presented, what it essentially comes down to is; did it taste great, did you love it? Yes, well then thats all that counts.

Saying that, there are general rules you can use as a guide, but then rules are there to be broken, because in tailoring it’s about making each individual look good in their own, unique way. Not all walking around like sheep dressed the same, with the same ratio dimensions of jackets and trousers. What happened to personal freedom when it comes to style….

Ranting aside, these are the essential areas to look at on a suit and that should be fitting well:

  1. Your sleeves should be smooth, because if they’re not, then it means your sleeve is pitched incorrectly and this can really let down a suit. There should be no wrinkles at the front or back of the sleeves.
  2. The chest area should be smooth. When you have a dropped shoulder, it can cause a break on one side of a jacket and these are the things that should be addressed on your fitting or noticed prior.
  3. I believe that a suit jacket should sit just below your bum cheeks, as its the most flattering jacket length you can wear. Like women, men can be hip heavy and all your eyes will do is be drawn to the largest part of your body and thats not good for anyone.
  4. Sleeve length. Yes, it does look sharp to show around a cm of shirt cuff but to be perfectly honest its up to you what you feel comfortable with. As long as you don’t have them covering your hands, we’ll still be friends 😉
  5. A jacket shouldn’t just hang off of the back of your body and float, it should hug your waist slightly.
  6. Trouser length, the choice is generally no break (sitting right on top of the shoe) half break (a minimal collapse onto your shoe) or a full break (where your trousers sit on the shoe, with a heavier crease) Again, I personally think it looks more flattering with a half break and a slant towards the back of the shoe, as it elongates the look of the leg and looks more elegant.

Conclusion

As I say, there are so many options in tailoring and everyone has an opinion on style and fit but ultimately it is down to your personal preferences but we believe in making you, the individual look sharp dependant on your style and shape.

You may like to read:

My suit doesn’t fit properly, here are a few reasons that may be happening 

Half canvas vs full canvas: Whats the difference?

If you’d like to discuss your made to measure or bespoke suit, or just want a chat (as long as its uplifting) our tailors are on standby to help.

Written by Alexandra Wood