A Savile Row Tailor’s guide to overcoats

Nothing looks better in the cooler months than a good overcoat. They keep you warm through the harsh winter, look slick over a suit and are easily wearable on the weekend to boot. It may be September, but it’s never too early to think about having a bespoke version of one of these beauties made, so here’s a Savile Row tailor’s quick guide to finding and wearing best style of overcoat for you.

Alexandra’s personal suggestions:

  • I advise most men to choose a mid-length coat as it is more flattering and balances out physiques better.
  • Always have your overcoat fitted for optimum flattery. One of my pet hates is seeing fabric flapping around (it reminds me of 80s power suits!) so consider a body coat which is a much closer fit. Also, choose a fitted sleeve rather than a raglan sleeve which rarely flatters anyone.
  • Keep the look simple and eternally fresh, opt for a plain colour such as camel and navy. Textured browns are also great ‘neutrals’ that always look classic.
  • If you want a more casual look choose exposed buttons, but for a slick, city look go for concealed buttons with an outside pocket and a contrasting velvet collar.
  • Do add layers e.g. wear a shirt with a V-neck sweater over it. And if it’s really cold, add a contrasting coloured scarf.
  • When it comes to fabric, choose a pure wool or wool cashmere mix. While cashmere is divine, pure wool looks more structured and will hold its shape for longer.
  • When trying on an overcoat, wear the clothes you intend pairing it with. A suit if you are planning on wearing it for business or with some layers, for example, a shirt and sweater combination.

Coat styles

There are a few options to choose from, so it depends on where and when you’ll be wearing them (business, weekend, outdoors, commuting), and what you’ll be wearing them with.

Covert coats

These are lighter than classic overcoats, look trendy over work suits or with jeans or trousers on the weekend.

Top qualities:

  • It is showerproof so it will give you some protection from the drizzle.
  • It is both classic and fashionable.
  • This style is particularly slimming if you wish to avoid a bulky winter look.

The Crombie

These are a winter classic. They’re usually seen with concealed buttons and a velvet contrast collar at the top.

Top qualities:

  • A classic style that will last through the years.
  • A wide range of fabrics and colours can be used.
  • It works with a variety of outfits.

Ticket pocket overcoat

These feature a ‘ticket pocket’ – a small flapped pocket placed just above the right main hip pocket on a man’s jacket. It is approximately half as wide as the pocket below it. Originally the pocket was used to hold change.

  • The ticket pocket adds character to an otherwise plain coat.
  • The under collar felt colour looks great in a bold colour.

TOP TIP Give all of these designs a twist with a striking contrast colour under the collar for when it gets really cold and you can use the chance to show it off!

Bespoke overcoats

Bespoke overcoats are a wardrobe staple – invest once and you probably won’t ever need to upgrade (unless you want a new colour). With classic styling, quality fabric and a perfect fit, you’ll be sure to get years of wear and warmth from it. Coats at Alexandra Wood range from £1100 – £3500, with bespoke versions starting at £2500.

The process takes approximately 6-8 weeks, so make an appointment now at our Savile Row, Bishop’s Stortford or new Shoreditch stores to chat about having a winter masterpiece created just for you.

We also have our Limited Edition overcoats in store now, including this coat with edgy skull lining, but they get snapped up quickly so pop into a store today.

Skull print lining in blue overcoat

There are some great examples on this Pinterest Board and on my Instagram account. And there is more advice on a previous post about city dressing in Autumn/Winter.

Words by Katrina Strathearn @ Veracity Content