London Fashion Week Men’s (previously known as London Collections Men) showcased some of the best menswear design talent around the world. Here is my take on the best and worst looks, both on and off the catwalk.

My catwalk analysis:

Designers are tasked with pushing the limits of fashion trends. Here is my tailors-eye opinion on the clear winners, and the ones to avoid.

The winners

Gorgeous colours (see Casely Hayford or Chucs). The colours are fresh and sumptuous so, with the right skin tone matched for each, this could be a truly, gloriously colourful spring for men. I say hooray to that!

The disasters

The beach look (see Wan Hung) . Bringing back those Hawaiian shirts is definitely a look that is more tragic than trendy. The mish-mash of colours and wild imagery is a complete sensory overload. I can't think that any pieces where this would work in a slick tailoring sense.

Over-sized shoulders (see Vogue). I’ll be giving bold shoulders the cold shoulder. Lovers of Miami Vice will be delighted with this trend, I'm sure. However, we always maintain that suits should sit at the perfect point where your shoulder ends, no more and no less. Over-sized shoulders completely break the rules in our tailoring code, so we will be giving them a miss.

My alternatives to the trends this season

Military (see Christopher Raeburn or Nigel Cabourn). Rather than khaki, choose moss and sage greens. These look sharp, creating a nod towards the trend rather than a full-on march.

Sheer. From a tailoring perspective, I can't see our customers opting for see-through garments, but there is no harm opting for lighter-weight shirt fabrics with a clever blend of cotton/linen. The word is sheer, not see-through!

Bold, over-sized shoulders. The colours on show were fabulous, and I'm excited that men, it seems, WILL be wearing more colour in spring/summer 2017. However, I suggest leaving this cut for the catwalk. It's advisable to keep the shoulder seam just where the shoulder ends.

Short trousers (see Chalayan) . There's a limit when it comes to baring flesh. And let's face it: if, like most men, you have hairy, skinny ankles these need to stay well hidden. An alternative is to wear trousers just hitting the shoe if you really must! Personally, I prefer a half break onto the shoe.

My favourite casual looks:

The most stylish men at the shows effortlessly managed to dress for the awful January weather without bulky pieces. Layering cosy polo-neck jumpers with smartly structured wool coats, or three-piece suits in warm tweeds and checks with a vintage edge were popular choices. My favourite accessories were well-chosen glasses frames (definitely sexy) and beautifully polished and maintained shoes. Hats off to you, gentlemen!

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Darren Kennedy at the Ximon Lee Show (photo by Jeff Spicer)

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Paul Sculfor at the What We Wear show (photo by Christian Vierig)

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Matthew Zorpas at Matthew Miller Show (photo by Laurent Benhamou Sipa Rex)

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Hu Bing outsisde Topman Design Show (David M. Bennett)

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Eric Rutherford at Launch Party of LFWM (Photo by David M. Bennett)

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